Developing and using “unconventional” case materials for watchmaking is one of our core competencies. It is deeply rooted in our company’s historical DNA and has produced a number of astonishing timepieces in the past. The T50 GBDR edition is another impressive demonstration of our extensive expertise in the field of metallurgy.
For the diver’s bezel of this interesting timepiece, we are using a bronze alloy we developed, which has a patent pending. This alloy, referred to as Goldbronze 125, has an exceptionally high degree of purity, and one eighth of it is gold. With bronze, we are embracing a material that has been used frequently in a wide range of maritime applications in the past. However, the exceptionally high degree of purity of our Goldbronze 125 results in improved skin compatibility and increased corrosion resistance to seawater compared to conventional bronze alloys. Material-technically matching this, the case of the T50 GBDR is made of high-strength titanium. As this metal does not cause allergies, the watch provides exceptionally high wearing comfort overall. Although the surface of Goldbronze 125 darkens due to oxidation, developing a patina, we achieve inertia against environmental influences with the gold alloy component. The surface darkens much more slowly than with ordinary bronze. The darkening can also be easily removed using the special gold bronze care cloth we provide.
A concept tailored for operational safety ensures that nothing goes wrong when diving. This can be seen, for example, in the robust diver’s bezel. It is an extremely reliable tool for timekeeping, as it is captively attached to the case. It is also protected against accidental twisting. “Press first, then turn”: this is the memorable principle behind the simple yet effective anti-twist mechanism. When things get tough, Ar-Dehumidifying Technology ensures greater functional reliability and freedom from fogging.
The captive safety diver’s bezel made of Goldbronze 125 harmonises perfectly with the matte black dial – an interplay that skilfully contrasts with the more objective-technical appearance of the bead-blasted, high-strength titanium case. All this does not come at the expense of clear readability and measurability – because the display has been reduced to the bare essentials. Important design features of this concept are strikingly large sword hands and the visual understatement of all functions and printing on the dial and safety bezel that are not relevant to the actual dive. The timepiece also uses colour-coding to ensure reliable reading of reference times, especially in the dark or under adverse visibility conditions. The hour hands and indices on the dial glow green, while the minute and second hands and the main marking on the rotating bezel are bluish. As the crown is located at 4 o’clock, it prevents pressure on the back of the hand, even during physically demanding activities.
With its diameter of 41 mm, the T50 GBDR model cuts a wearable figure in any situation - especially on narrow wrists.